A Fast, Light Pulling Boat Part Two: Finishing Touches

I'm near completion, just a couple more tweaks which I will save until spring. Hope you enjoy the photos.

A coat of paint or two is spread on the bottom. The top strakes and the transom  are left  bright (with no stain) and varnished clear

The inside is also painted. I normally wouldn't do this, but  it  will be a nice way to show off the custom built rowing unit. The two mahogany bulk heads (or ribs) are placed a little forward and a little aft of the original specifications. This will allow for the seats to be relocated to distribute the weight more evenly.

The completed shell seen from a different angle. The Annapolis Wherry is as elegant as it is functional.

The wherry with the rowing unit mounted in place. It rests directly on the bulkheads in order to lower the center of gravity and render the boat more seaworthy. The rowing seat is clamped at the exact center of buoyancy. Unlike standard rowing units, the outriggers are designed to unlock and swing inboard for docking or transportation.

A closeup of the passenger's seat. Note how the entire unit can be clamped in place  without  using any tools.

The seats are curved along the same radius as the boat hull. The two thumb screws  can be loosened  so that the  seat can be repositioned.

The rear seat will also serve a second function when the rower is alone. If you have been reading this blog, you may have noticed that a lot of the city lakes are connected by narrow bridges and channels, rendering oars useless. So, to negotiate these waters, the rower can stow the oars inside the boat, move to the rear, and paddle the wherry like a canoe.

The forward bracket is also clamped in place with a thumbscrew. No tools required!

The Annapolis Wherry has proved to be a lot of fun. Along the way, I have learned something about myself: I enjoy building boats as much as I enjoy rowing them!

The details about my boat building class should be published next week. If you are interested, feel free to check back then.

The boat is supported by an extra long trailer. I bought an older model on Craigslist and welded on an extra five feet.

A Fast, Light Pulling Boat Part One: Under construction

I have been pretty happy with my little dinghy. It is easy to transport, quite seaworthy, and easier to row than the larger city issue fiberglass boats. But the dinghy has it's short comings. I've always wanted a fast, light pulling boat, something that can move through the water more easily.

So when I saw an ad for an Annapolis Wherry kit on Craigslist I jumped at the opportunity. It has flawlessly good lines, is quite sea worthy, and, even though it's almost eighteen feet long, it weighs only 65 lbs- the same as the eight foot dinghy!

As it turned out the kit was badly damaged. The owner had copied the shapes parts on to mahogany then proceeded to ruin those pieces as she cut them out. But, in spite of all those problems, the price was right! So, I bought it and put it into storage waiting for winter to come. I began by sorting the pieces and deciding how to salvage the project. To make a long story short, I've pretty much succeeded and made some changes to the original design.

The Wherry under construction: There will be no fixed seats

You may have read the previous blog about building a rowing unit. The plan is to install it in the wherry. The original plans called for fixed seats with a rowing unit mounted over the top of them. It struck me as a little strange so this new boat will not have fixed seats, just a rowing unit with two seats fastened to the  monorail. I should save a couple of pounds along the way.

putting a coat of epoxy on the outside

The entire boat is finished with epoxy from Polygem. The product is safer and greener than the other stuff.  I think it took about a gallon and a half. The hull gets its strength from the filets which join each strake to the next. The filets are actually stronger than the wood surrounding them. Epoxy and lapstrake construction seem to have been made for one another.

A layer of fiberglass is also epoxied on the bottom strakes both inside and out. This adds still more strength and protects the woodwork from scuffs and scrapes. Everything sets up perfectly clear and you can't see the glass cloth. No one uses polyester resin anymore. I should be able to finish some time soon. Call it "part two." I'll post more photos then.

Basic Boating as a College Course

I am pleased to report that I will be teaching boat building this summer at Concordia University through the office of Continuing Education. The registration details and numbers are posted below. The nice part is that it will be offered during the first half of the summer session. You will have time to take it out on the water!

One need not have any special skills or background to build a stitch and glue boat. The entire approach is geared for beginners. You will have completed a nice little 8 foot pram or dinghy by the end of the course. Feel free to bring a friend with you to help get things done. It's more fun that way!

My friend Rachel helped me with The Prodigal. We had a great time time. You can see this boat (and Rachel too) throughout this blog

After you finish, you will need to take your boat home. You could put it on a car top if you get a roof rack or borrow a pick up truck. It is small enough to fit in back. You will need to paint (or varnish) it, and install hardware such as oarlocks. That's about it it. You will want to purchase oars and a life vest or two. The state of Minnesota does not require licensing for boats this size.

This is a great bargain. Another builder charges $750.00 for tuition and $1000.00 for materials and supplies.

Registration Information

Go to website http://csp.reachlocal.com/?scid=1756224&kw=2088906:25675&pub_cr_id=5641980151 and then click on "continuing education" found at the bottom of the page. click on "search for classes." Course code: FNA 213, Place: room 131 Theatre scene shop, Time: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday from 6PM til 10PM beginning 5/29/12 and ending 6/28/12. Tuition will be $690 if you want college credit or just $250.00 for no credit. An additional lab fee of $150.00 (cash) is due on the first day in order to cover the cost of materials. You can click through on line registration after that.

This is the design to be built

This boat is actually a little shorter than eight feet. The lab fee will cover all the materials needed to build with 1/4" marine grade fir plywood, fir seats, and misc trim. If you desire more expensive materials there will be an extra charge when you place your order.There will be some differences between the project and this picture. For the most part there will be less trim on the class project. The hull shape will be improved. All wood surfaces will be glued and sealed with clear epoxy. The joints will be reinforced with fiberglass. With a little care, the completed boat should last indefinitely. For more details, check back earlier in this blog: The Build.

Sealing the wood with epoxy

For a short boat, it rows easily, handles well in the roughest chop, and can be outfitted with a trolling motor or regular short shaft outboard.

Class size will be limited to just 6. Make sure to register early to get in. For more information, please contact me (Jim): seemann@csp.edu