A special thanks to my dear friend Rachel, who helped me build The Prodigal. We had a blast!
I start by staining 2 sheets of exterior grade 1/4" Baltic birch with a coat of Minwax water base stain. The product is also supposed to be a sealer, but that would be undesirable . I want to keep the wood grain open so that it will absorb the epoxy. So I dilute it with five parts water. After the Minwax dries, the epoxy goes down. I chose Polygem 1319 ultra. It's both safe and simple to use. I thoroughly mix A and B at 2 to 1 and follow all the other directions.
Mix 2:1 follow directions. 5 ounces will cover 2 sheets
Rachel preps plywood by dusting first with a tack rag
Next a very thin coat of the epoxy is applied in a with a fine finish foam roller.
Apply another coat some time after the first coat sets up (about 7-8 hours). Sand the second coat lightly with 150 or 220 grit paper and apply a third coat. It doesn't hurt to put as many as five coats on, sanding each time.
Joining components requires a thicker type of epoxy. I like Polygem LCR which stands for liquid concrete repair. But don't let the name fool you. The product works on wood too. It's a lot like peanut butter and it has a working time of about an hour. It takes longer to set all the way.
Mix LCR at 1:1
I butter up the surfaces of both components and press them together until the epoxy squishes out. I use brad gun loaded with stainless steel brads to hold everything in place until the cement dries.
Two components are joined with enough pressure to "squish out" some of the LCR
Then wash away any excess with a rag and some water
Water cleanup is unique to Polygem. Keep in mind that you can't do this with other epoxies.After most of the LCR is wiped away, Rachel "paints" the joint with wood flour. Wood flour is a fine dust which I collect from the sanders. The brush gently presses the flour into the epoxy and fills the crack. The wood flour can be stained after the LCR has set.
Paint the seams with wood flour
The next step includes fastening some of the major structural components: the stem, stern, keel, and keelson. The keel is traditionally made from white oak sawed into a gentle curve. LCR is used as well as stainless steel brads. Forward and aft are two large fir knees which stiffen the whole boat, especially while the cement cures.
The stem and stern are joined with a white oak keel and keelson
Bilge panels go on next. note that the joining surfaces are well buttered with LCR.
The bilge panels are held in place with stainless steel brads.
The boat is flipped over to check the glue joints. Any excess on the inside should be washed away. Also note that the bilge panels extend beyond the stem. These will be trimmed later.
The strakes are getting stitched. I use baling wire held loosely in place until the surfaces can be treated with LCR.
A closeup of a stitch and glue joint: with the cement on the edges, the wires are ready to be tightened.
A view with both strakes cemented in place
Time now to attach the details: bilge battens reinforce the floor. Inwhales and rub rails reinforce the top edges. Smaller knees support the corners where the inwhales meet the stem and stern.
Fitting in the seats
Bilge panels go on next. note that the joining surfaces are well buttered with LCR.
The bilge panels are held in place with stainless steel brads.
The boat is flipped over to check the glue joints. Any excess on the inside should be washed away. Also note that the bilge panels extend beyond the stem. These will be trimmed later.
The strakes are getting stitched. I use baling wire held loosely in place until the surfaces can be treated with LCR.
A closeup of a stitch and glue joint: with the cement on the edges, the wires are ready to be tightened.
After everything is wired in place, I will reinforce the joints with 1/2" stainless steel brads.
A view with both strakes cemented in place
Next, a small reinforcing chine is cemented into the inside of the seam. Use plenty of LCR! There should be no air pockets or voids.
The chine is cemented in place and held with stainless steel brads. All of the excess LCR will be wiped away with water and rags.
Wood flour is brushed into the seam after the excess LCR was removed
After the seams have set up, I flip the boat over and start working on the hull. This is a case of sand-and-prime, sand-and-prime. I keep this up until the surfaces are perfectly smooth.
The hull is sanded and primed
Fitting in the seats
The last step which involves carpentry is fastening the seats. I'm almost there now. I will keep you posted as The Prodigal nears completion. It won't be long!
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